Loafer Arten: Tassel, Penny oder Horsebit?

Loafer gehören zu den wenigen Schuhen, die seit Jahrzehnten relevant bleiben – ohne sich gross verändern zu müssen. Kein Schnüren, kein Reissverschluss, einfach reinschlüpfen. Was als simpler Mokassin begann, hat sich über die Jahrzehnte in verschiedene Richtungen entwickelt. Hier ein Überblick über die wichtigsten Loafer Arten, ihre Unterschiede und worauf es beim Kauf ankommt.

1. Penny Loafer

Vagabond Penny Loafer

Der Penny Loafer ist der Klassiker unter den Loafern und gleichzeitig der vielseitigste. Erkennbar am schmalen Lederriemen über dem Spann mit dem typischen Schlitz – dem sogenannten “Penny Slot”. Der Name kommt tatsächlich daher, dass amerikanische Studenten in den 1930er Jahren eine Münze in diesen Schlitz steckten, teils als Glücksbringer, teils als Notgroschen für einen Telefonanruf.

Der Penny Loafer funktioniert zu fast allem: zur Chinohose im Büro genauso wie zu Jeans am Wochenende. In dunklem Leder wird er formeller, in Hellbraun oder Wildleder eher casual. Genau diese Bandbreite macht ihn zum guten Einstieg, wenn man sich seinen ersten Loafer kauft.

Worauf achten: Die Passform ist entscheidend – der Fuss sollte am Spann gut sitzen, ohne dass der Schuh drückt oder rutscht. Beim Material gilt: gutes Leder wird mit der Zeit bequemer und entwickelt eine eigene Patina. Billige Kunstleder-Loafer tun das nicht.

Famous wearers of the penny loafer

Numerous icons, from film stars like James Dean to former presidents, have worn the penny loafer, cementing its status as a stylish must-have. Women like Audrey Hepburn have also elegantly styled this type of shoe, emphasising its unisex appeal.

Handarbeit aus Madrid: Castellano 1920

Ein gutes Beispiel für Penny Loafer mit Substanz kommt aus Spanien: Castellano fertigt seit 1920 in Madrid Loafer von Hand. Die Schuhe werden heute noch so hergestellt wie vor hundert Jahren – vom Leisten über den Zuschnitt bis zur finalen Politur mit Wachsen und Cremes, alles in Handarbeit. Das Modell 800, seit 1989 im Sortiment, ist mit über 20’000 verkauften Paaren pro Jahr der meistverkaufte Schuh der Marke. Das Leder kommt von spanischen Gerbereien, die Sohlen sind aus Leder.

Wer sehen will, wie so ein Schuh entsteht, findet hier zwei Videos direkt aus der Werkstatt in Madrid:

2. Tassel Loafer

Solovair Tassel Loafer

Der Tassel Loafer hat seinen Namen von den kleinen Quasten (Tassels) an der Vorderseite. Er entstand in den 1950er Jahren und war lange vor allem in der amerikanischen Ivy-League-Szene zu Hause – Anwälte, Professoren, East-Coast-Preppy. Entsprechend hat er von allen Loafer-Typen die formellste Ausstrahlung.

Der Tassel Loafer trägt sich gut zum Anzug, aber auch zu einer Stoffhose mit Hemd. Zu Jeans und T-Shirt wird es eher schwierig – dafür ist er einen Tick zu elegant. Wer einen Loafer sucht, der etwas mehr hermacht als der Penny Loafer, ist hier richtig.

Unterschied Penny vs. Tassel Loafer: Der Penny Loafer ist schlichter und vielseitiger einsetzbar. Der Tassel Loafer wirkt durch die Quasten etwas dekorativer und dressier. Im direkten Vergleich: Penny für den Alltag, Tassel wenn es etwas aufgeräumter sein soll.

Solovair aus England stellt Tassel Loafer in Goodyear-Welted-Konstruktion her – handgenäht in Northamptonshire, der traditionellen Hochburg der britischen Schuhmacherei.

3. horsebit loafer (Gucci Loafers)

Vagabond Horsebit Loafer

Der Horsebit Loafer ist der auffälligste unter den dreien. Sein Erkennungsmerkmal ist die metallene Schnalle über dem Spann – das sogenannte Horsebit (Pferdegebiss), inspiriert von Reitzubehör. Gucci machte diesen Stil in den 1950er Jahren populär, und die Marke ist bis heute am engsten mit dem Horsebit Loafer verbunden.

Charakteristisch ist die glatte Lederkonstruktion kombiniert mit dem Metalldetail. Der Horsebit Loafer bewegt sich irgendwo zwischen lässig und formell – er funktioniert zur schmal geschnittenen Hose genauso wie zum legeren Sommeroutfit, vorausgesetzt, der Rest des Looks stimmt.

Gut zu wissen: Horsebit Loafer gibt es inzwischen von vielen Marken und in allen Preisklassen. Wer nicht gleich in Gucci investieren will, findet bei Vagabond Shoemakers solide Alternativen.

Other types of loafers

Neben den drei Haupttypen gibt es noch einige Varianten, die weniger verbreitet, aber nicht weniger interessant sind:

Kiltie loafer – stammt ursprünglich aus Schottland und hat eine charakteristische Fransenverzierung über dem Spann. Ein eher rustikaler Stil, der gut zu Tweed und Country-Looks passt.

Beef Roll Loafer – eine amerikanische Variante des Penny Loafers mit dickeren, sichtbaren Nähten an den Seiten. Robuster und informeller als der klassische Penny.

Tipps zur Pflege von Loafern

Leder ist Haut – und wie Haut trocknet es mit der Zeit aus. Wann ein Loafer Pflege braucht, sieht man am Material selbst: Wenn das Leder matt wirkt, sich trocken anfühlt oder feine Risse in den Gehfalten zeigt, ist es Zeit. Bei Schuhen, die man oft trägt, ist das häufiger der Fall als bei Gelegenheitsschuhen.

Schuhcreme vs. Schuhwachs – zwei verschiedene Dinge. Schuhcreme zieht ins Leder ein, nährt es und hält es geschmeidig. Schuhwachs legt sich als Schutzschicht auf die Oberfläche, gibt Glanz und macht das Leder wasserabweisender. Idealerweise zuerst Creme, dann Wachs. In beiden Fällen gilt: dünn auftragen. Zu viel Produkt verkrustet und lässt das Leder nicht mehr atmen.

Farblich passende Creme hat den Vorteil, dass sie kleine Kratzer und Abrieb kaschiert. Wer auf Nummer sicher gehen will, greift zu farbloser Creme. Beim Schuhwachs ist Bienenwachs eine gute Wahl – es schützt das Leder vor Feuchtigkeit und gibt einen sauberen Glanz.

Wildleder ist ein Sonderfall: Hier auf keinen Fall Creme oder Wachs verwenden – das verklebt die feinen Fasern und das Leder wird speckig. Stattdessen: Imprägnierspray vor dem ersten Tragen, danach bei Bedarf auffrischen. Verschmutzungen mit einer Kreppbürste behandeln.

Schuhspanner helfen, dass das Leder die Gehfalten nicht zu tief einprägt. Wer sie nicht nach jedem Tragen reinsteckt: zumindest wenn die Schuhe länger im Schrank stehen.

You can find more tips on caring for leather shoes here!

Unser Loafer-Sortiment

Bei Booster findest du Loafer von Castellano (handgefertigte Penny Loafer aus Madrid), Solovair (Tassel und Penny Loafer, Made in England) und Vagabond Shoemakers. Die komplette Auswahl gibt es im Laden an der Stüssihofstatt 6 in Zürich – online haben wir nur einen Teil des Sortiments.

You can find our range of loafer shoes here!

The Harrington jacket: an iconic garment through the ages

What is a Harrington jacket?

The Harrington jacket is a lightweight, fitted jacket with a zip fastening, usually made from cotton, polyester or a mixture of the two. Characteristic of the Harrington jacket are the chequered lining, often in a tartan pattern, the elasticated cuffs and hem and the slanted pockets with flaps. The jacket is both functional and stylish and became popular in the 1960s.

History

Die Harrington Jacke wurde in den 1930er Jahren von John und Isaac Miller, den Gründern des britischen Unternehmens Baracuta, entworfen. Ursprünglich als G9 bekannt, war die Jacke für Golfer konzipiert, die eine leichte, wasserabweisende Jacke benötigten, die genügend Bewegungsfreiheit bot. Der Name “Harrington” wurde in den 1960er Jahren durch die amerikanische Fernsehserie “Peyton Place” populär, in der der Charakter Rodney Harrington, gespielt von Ryan O’Neal, oft eine solche Jacke trug.

Pop culture and subcultures

Die Harrington Jacke fand schnell ihren Weg in die Popkultur und wurde von Ikonen wie Elvis Presley und Steve McQueen getragen. Presley trug eine Harrington Jacke im Film “King Creole” (1958), und McQueen machte sie in “The Thomas Crown Affair” (1968) berühmt. Diese Verbindungen zu Hollywood-Stars verliehen der Jacke einen Status als modisches Statement.

In the 1970s and 1980s, the Harrington jacket was adopted by various subcultures. It was particularly popular with British mods, who combined it with slim trousers and polo shirts. Later, it was also worn by skinheads and punks, who used the jacket as an expression of their rebellion and individual style.

Brands such as Ben Sherman and Fred Perry have also been instrumental in keeping the Harrington jacket popular in these subcultures by combining classic designs with modern elements

Harrington jacket in today's world

Today, the Harrington jacket is a timeless garment worn by people of all ages and styles. It remains a staple of many fashion brands and comes in a variety of colours and materials.

The versatility of the Harrington jacket makes it an ideal choice for different occasions, whether casual or more formal. Its lightweight yet robust construction makes it ideal for changeable weather.

Summary

The Harrington jacket has a rich history and is deeply rooted in various cultures and subcultures. From its beginnings as a golf jacket in the 1930s to its status as a fashion icon in the 1960s and its popularity in various subcultures, it remains a symbol of style, functionality and timeless elegance. Thanks to brands such as Baracuta, Fred Perry and Ben Sherman, which continue the tradition of the Harrington jacket while giving it a modern interpretation, this garment remains an indispensable part of the fashion world.

What are creepers?

Creepers, also known as brothel creepers, are flat leather shoes with thick, soft crepe soles that are often up to 5 centimetres thick and have vertical grooves. These shoes, usually laced, are often made of suede. Nowadays, however, the shoe is also available in smooth leather and a wide variety of colours and designs. Their design and texture make them a striking fashion item that is particularly popular in subcultures and is always on trend.

History

Picture: George Cox Footwear

The origins of creeper shoes go back to the time after the Second World War, when British soldiers returned to London from North Africa. There they wore suede boots with thick rubber soles made by Egyptian and Burmese shoemakers. Called "Brothel Creepers" at the time, the shoes found their way into civilian life thanks to the veterans and were allegedly often spotted in the red light district of Soho, hence the name.

In 1949, the company George Cox Footwear the first fashionable version of the creepers was launched on the market, which became known as the "Hamilton". These shoes were manufactured in George Cox's factory in Wellingborough and quickly became popular.

Teddy boys and punks

In the 1950s, creepers were particularly popular with the Teddy Boys, a British youth culture. This culture was characterised by flamboyant clothing and a penchant for rock 'n' roll. Creepers became an integral part of their look, which combined elegant Edwardian fashion with rebellious elements.

In the 1970s, Creepers experienced a rebirth through the influence of Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwoodwhich she sells in her London shop "Let it Rock" were sold. The shoes quickly became an important element of the emerging punk scene, worn by bands such as the Sex Pistols.

Creepers became a key element of the punk rock look. As punk evolved into new wave and post-punk, new styles gained popularity such as less extreme rockabilly styles worn by artists like Elvis Costello, Squeeze and Madness.

"Not just the UK, but throughout the world, where pioneers such as Blue Moon in Germany, John Fluevog in Canada, Let it Rock in the USA, Figgins in Australia, Booster in Switzerland and American Import Export in Italy were introducing British subculture to their respective markets."

Quote from the Website of George Cox

 

Creeper in the modern age

In the 1990s, creepers became popular again thanks to celebrity wearers such as the Spice Girls and Gwen Stefani. In the 2010s to 2020s, they experienced another renaissance, worn by artists and celebrities such as Rihanna, The Weeknd, Rita Ora, Katy Perry and Miley Cyrus.

In fact, Rihanna was so inspired by the Creeper that she launched a joint shoe collection with Puma in 2015 called Puma Creeper which was honoured as shoe of the year in 2016.

Today, creepers are not only an integral part of the fashion world, but also a symbol of style and rebellion. They are appreciated by various subcultures and fashion-conscious individuals and can be seen both on the street and on the catwalks. Brands such as George Cox and Steelgrounds continue to set the standard in the production of these iconic shoes.

Picture: George Cox Footwear

Buy Creeper

Irene and Pierre Montandon, the Founder of Boosterwere probably the first to import and sell the iconic shoe in Switzerland. To this day, the Creeper is an integral part of our range, which has continued to enjoy great popularity over the years. Including, of course, the Creeper from George Coxwhich are still "Made in England" today, but also less expensive models from Steelgrounds or T.U.K Footwear.

Click here for our Creeper range!

Caring for leather shoes is not just a question of aesthetics, but above all of longevity and comfort. High-quality leather shoes such as Loafer, Low shoes and Chelsea boots deserve special attention. Here are the reasons:

• Longer shelf lifeRegular care preserves the elasticity of the leather and prevents premature cracking

• Weather resistanceWell nourished leather is water repellent and keeps your feet dry.

• Aesthetics preservedLeather wax ensures a lasting shine and a supple surface so that your shoes still look like new even after years.

• Comfort: Well-maintained leather adapts better to the shape of the foot and is therefore more comfortable to wear.

Unkempt leather shoes, on the other hand, become brittle, the material cracks and they lose their shape. Stains and watermarks can set in - the shoe looks worn out more quickly and is more likely to break. With the right care routine, you can avoid these problems and wear your high-quality shoes for many years to come.

Different types of leather shoes and their specific care

Not all leather is the same. Different Leather types require customised care methods to maintain their quality and appearance. The following types of leather are most commonly found in shoes:

Smooth leather

Smooth leather is characterised by its smooth surface and is one of the most popular types of leather for shoes. Care includes:

• Regular cleaning
• Apply shoe polish or wax to nourish the material and protect it from external influences.
• In some cases impregnation spray

Suede leather

Suede, also known as suede, has a velvety surface and is particularly susceptible to stains and wear. The care of this material includes:

• Use of special brushes for cleaning
• Use of foam cleaners to remove stains
• In some cases impregnation spray

Suede leather

Suede is similar to suede, but has a rougher texture. The care of this material requires:

• Special brushes for cleaning
• Sprays to refresh the colour and protect against moisture.
• In some cases impregnation spray

Patent leather

Patent leather is a leather with a lacquered surface, which is covered with a shiny and smooth film. Patent leather often only requires a damp cloth for cleaning. When using waterproofing sprays, make sure that they do not contain solvents. This can attack the lacquer coating and leave matt stains.

• Clean with a damp cotton cloth and warm water
• Special care to nourish the patent leather
• In some cases impregnation spray
• No brushes!

The need for customised treatment is based on the fact that every material reacts differently to moisture, dirt and mechanical stress. The reaction to care products also varies. Careful selection of the right products is crucial for maintaining the appearance and longevity of your leather shoes.

It is generally advisable to test new care products in a small amount on a non-visible area of the shoes to see how the material reacts to the product.

Step-by-step guide to caring for leather shoes

Proper care of your leather shoes is crucial to prolonging their life and keeping them looking their best. A comprehensive routine includes cleaning, conditioning and waterproofing. Here is a detailed guide:

1. Preparation

Before you start, remove coarse dirt with a soft brush. Remove the laces so that you can reach all areas of the leather.

2. Cleaning leather shoes

• Dry cleaningBrush the shoe thoroughly to remove dust and dirt.
• Moist cleaningUse a slightly damp cloth to gently clean the leather.
• DryingAllow the shoes to air dry, but not in direct sunlight or next to a heat source.

3. Grease leather shoes (conditioning)

• Selection of productsChoose a suitable leather cream or wax. We usually recommend beeswax-based products to our customers. There are coloured or colour-neutral products.
• ApplyApply a small amount of the product to a clean cloth and massage it into the leather in circular movements. If necessary, also use a brush.
• Allow to take effectGive the leather time to absorb the care products before you put the shoes back on. It is best to leave the shoes to soak in overnight.

4. Impregnating leather shoes

• Protection from moisture and dirtWaterproofing spray protects against water and facilitates future cleaning processes.
• ApplicationSpray the waterproofing agent evenly onto the cleaned and conditioned leather, keeping a distance of about 30 cm. You do not need to completely soak the shoe in the spray.
• DryingAfter treatment, the shoes should be allowed to dry thoroughly again.

Caution: With chrome-free tanned leather, an impregnation spray may attack the leather. Clarify this in advance or test the spray on a concealed area first.

This care routine not only preserves the appearance of your leather shoes, but also makes them more resistant to daily wear and tear. Regular use of these methods will significantly extend the life of your valuable shoes.

Special tips for the care of suede shoes

Suede, also known as suede, is characterised by its velvety surface. This material gives shoes a special aesthetic, but it can present challenges when it comes to cleaning and care. It is therefore important to know how to Suede leather can treat.

Why is the care of suede shoes so challenging?

Suede is particularly susceptible to stains and water damage. Its rough structure attracts dirt particles and absorbs liquids quickly. Without the right treatment, these factors can severely impair the appearance of your shoes.

How do you remove stains from suede surfaces?

To remove stains:

1. Carefully brush off the dry dirt.
2. Use a special suede eraser for stubborn stains.
3. If the stain is still visible, moisten a sponge and apply a small amount of suede soap.
4. Rub the sponge carefully over the stain.

Remember to allow your shoes to dry completely afterwards.

How do you freshen up the surface of suede shoes?

Over time, suede can lose its velvety lustre. To restore it:

1. Use a special suede brush to straighten the fibres.
2. Spray your shoes with a suede renovator spray to refresh the colour.
3. Leave the shoes to dry.

It is important to always be careful and patient when caring for suede shoes. Avoid over-wetting or over-brushing your shoes as this can damage the material. However, with the right techniques and products, your suede shoes can look and feel great for a long time.

Recommended products for leather shoe care

The right choice of shoe care products is crucial for the preservation and appearance of your leather shoes. Here are the essential products that no shoe care kit should be without:

1. Shoe polish

It moisturises, refreshes the colour and makes the leather supple. Make sure you choose a cream that matches the colour of your shoes. Or buy a colourless shoe polish.

2. Hard wax

After applying shoe polish, hard wax provides an additional protective film and makes your shoes shine. It is particularly useful for areas subject to heavy wear.

3. Waterproofing spray

To protect your leather shoes from water and dirt, a waterproofing spray is useful. It forms a water-repellent barrier and should be used regularly.

4. Leather soap

For thorough cleaning, we recommend using a special leather soap that removes dirt without damaging the material.

Often, however, simply greasing your leather shoes regularly with a good shoe wax is enough!

Tips for selecting high-quality products

High-quality products can significantly extend the life of your leather shoes. Here are some tips for quality assurance:

• Check ingredientsNatural ingredients such as Beeswax are often better for the leather and more environmentally friendly.

• Feedback from other customersOnline reviews and testimonials can help to assess the effectiveness of the products.

• Use counsellingSpecialist staff in shoe shops can give you valuable tips on which products are best suited to your shoe type. Simply drop by our shop and let our staff explain the process to you in detail.

Vegan alternatives for leather shoe care

If you want to avoid animal products when caring for your shoes, you can now find a wide range of vegan leather shoe alternatives. Brands such as Buffalo have specialised in producing fashionable and sustainable shoes that do not contain any animal ingredients. These shoes are often made from artificial leather, which is made from synthetic or plant-based materials.

For the care of vegan imitation leather shoes it is important to use products that have been specially developed for the needs of these materials. Here are a few points on vegan shoe care:

• Use Cleaning agentswhich are free from animal ingredients and suitable for artificial leather.

• Choose Care creams and spraysthat are explicitly labelled as vegan.

• Make sure that the Waterproofing spray is vegan to protect your shoes from moisture and dirt.

The selection of vegan care products is constantly growing and offers a good alternative for anyone who values ethically responsible fashion. These products can be used to effectively clean and protect vegan shoes so that they stay beautiful for a long time.

Again, test the care products on a small area first before rubbing/spraying the entire shoe with them.

Have it done by a professional: service by a shoemaker

Sometimes the best decision is to turn to a Shoemaker to ensure the durability and appearance of your leather shoes.

Why go to a shoemaker?

A shoemaker has the necessary expertise to professionally assess and treat material fatigue and signs of wear. They also have years of experience in what works and how to restore a shoe to its former glory.

He can also glue areas that are coming loose, sew cracks and much more. The price of such a shoe service can range from around CHF 15 - 30.

We also work closely with our neighbouring shoemaker Fera together to carry out repairs and services.

Conclusion

Whether loafers, boots or low shoes, the basic principles remain the same. Clean, condition and waterproof your leather shoes regularly to keep them in top condition.

Especially before the winter months, it makes sense to take care of your shoes once again, as salted roads after snowfall are particularly hard on the leather.

Vintage dresses

Get your exclusive second-hand vintage piece to mix and match, as an accessory or as a collector's item. According to the motto renew and reduce: Come by now and secure selected vintage pieces - new in the Booster Secondhand Vintage Corner at our Niederdorf store in Zurich!

Secondhand clothes

You can now find a wide range of second-hand clothes on the upper floor among our selection of shoes. Whether it's an 80's ski suit, snakeskin print flare trousers or simply a cool pair of sunglasses. Let us surprise you. We have fair prices and a constantly changing selection, so it's best to come by regularly to get hold of the best pieces