Loafer types: Tassel, Penny or Horsebit?
Loafers are among the few shoes that have remained relevant for decades – without needing to change much. No laces, no zip, simply slip them on. What began as a simple moccasin has evolved in various directions over the decades. Here is an overview of the most important types of loafers, their differences, and what matters when buying.
Penny Loafer
Der Penny Loafer ist der Klassiker unter den Loafern und gleichzeitig der vielseitigste. Erkennbar am schmalen Lederriemen über dem Spann mit dem typischen Schlitz – dem sogenannten „Penny Slot“. Der Name kommt tatsächlich daher, dass amerikanische Studenten in den 1930er Jahren eine Münze in diesen Schlitz steckten, teils als Glücksbringer, teils als Notgroschen für einen Telefonanruf.
The penny loafer works with almost everything: with chinos in the office just as well as with jeans at the weekend. In dark leather it becomes more formal, in light brown or suede rather casual. Exactly this versatility makes it a good starting point if you are buying your first loafer.
Things to look out for: The fit is crucial – the foot should sit well at the instep without the shoe pinching or slipping. As for the material: good leather becomes more comfortable over time and develops its own patina. Cheap synthetic leather loafers do not do that.
Famous wearers of the penny loafer
Numerous icons, from film stars like James Dean to former presidents, have worn the penny loafer, cementing its status as a stylish must-have. Women like Audrey Hepburn have also elegantly styled this type of shoe, emphasising its unisex appeal.
Handcrafted in Madrid: Castellano 1920
A good example of penny loafers with substance comes from Spain: Castellano has been making loafers by hand in Madrid since 1920. The shoes are still made today just as they were a hundred years ago – from the last and the cutting to the final polish with waxes and creams, everything is done by hand. Model 800, part of the range since 1989, is the brand's best-selling shoe with over 20,000 pairs sold annually. The leather comes from Spanish tanneries, and the soles are made of leather.
If you want to see how a shoe like this is made, you can find two videos here straight from the workshop in Madrid:
2. Tassel Loafer
The tassel loafer gets its name from the small tassels on the front. It originated in the 1950s and for a long time was primarily at home in the American Ivy League scene – lawyers, professors, East Coast preppy. Accordingly, of all loafer types, it has the most formal look.
The tassel loafer works well with a suit, but also with tailored trousers and a shirt. With jeans and a T-shirt, it's a bit more difficult—for that, it's a touch too elegant. Anyone looking for a loafer that makes a bit more of an impact than the penny loafer has come to the right place.
Difference between Penny and Tassel Loafer: The penny loafer is simpler and more versatile. The tassel loafer looks a bit more decorative and dressier due to the tassels. In direct comparison: penny for everyday wear, tassel when you want to look a bit smarter.
Solovair from England makes tassel loafers in a Goodyear-welted construction – hand-stitched in Northamptonshire, the traditional heartland of British shoemaking.
3. horsebit loafer (Gucci Loafers)
The horsebit loafer is the most striking of the three. Its distinguishing feature is the metal buckle across the instep – the so-called horsebit, inspired by equestrian equipment. Gucci popularised this style in the 1950s, and the brand remains most closely associated with the horsebit loafer to this day.
Characteristic is the smooth leather construction combined with the metal detail. The horsebit loafer sits somewhere between casual and formal – it works just as well with slim-cut trousers as it does with a casual summer outfit, provided the rest of the look is right.
Good to know: Horsebit loafers are now available from many brands and in all price ranges. Those who do not want to invest in Gucci straight away will find solid alternatives at Vagabond Shoemakers.
Other types of loafers
Besides the three main types, there are a few variants that are less common, but no less interesting:
Kiltie loafer – originates from Scotland and features a characteristic fringed detail over the instep. A rather rustic style that goes well with tweed and country looks.
Beef Roll Loafer – an American variation of the penny loafer with thicker, visible stitching on the sides. More robust and informal than the classic penny.
Tips for caring for loafers
Leather is skin – and like skin, it dries out over time. You can tell when a loafer needs care by looking at the material itself: if the leather looks dull, feels dry or shows fine cracks in the creasing, it's time. For shoes that are worn often, this is more frequently the case than for occasional shoes.
Shoe cream vs. shoe wax – two different things. Shoe cream penetrates the leather, nourishes it and keeps it supple. Shoe wax forms a protective layer on the surface, gives shine and makes the leather more water-repellent. Ideally, cream first, then wax. In both cases, the rule is: apply thinly. Too much product crusts and stops the leather from breathing.
Colour-matched cream has the advantage of concealing minor scratches and scuffs. Those who want to play it safe opt for neutral cream. When it comes to shoe wax, beeswax is a good choice – it protects the leather from moisture and provides a neat shine.
Suede is a special case: Never use cream or wax here – that clogs the fine fibres and makes the leather greasy. Instead: waterproofing spray before the first wear, then refresh as needed. Treat dirt with a crepe brush.
shoe trees help prevent the leather from impressing the creases too deeply. Anyone who doesn't insert them after every wear: at least when the shoes are in the cupboard for a longer period.
You can find more tips on caring for leather shoes here!
Our loafer range
At Booster you can find loafers from Castellano (handcrafted penny loafers from Madrid), Solovair (tassel and penny loafers, Made in England) and Vagabond Shoemakers. The full selection is available in the shop at Stüssihofstatt 6 in Zurich – online we only have part of the range.
